Henry Horton
Camper shell wiring diagrams are essential for anyone looking to wire their truck's camper shell. These diagrams provide a step-by-step guide to connecting the camper shell's brake and interior lights to the truck's electrical system. While the process may vary depending on the truck model and camper shell type, online resources and forums offer a wealth of information for DIY enthusiasts. Wiring harnesses are available for purchase and can be used to quickly connect and disconnect camper shells. However, for those seeking a more tailored approach, identifying the correct wires and their functions is crucial, and this can be done through careful tracing and ohm measurements.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of wires | 4 |
| Wire colours | Red, black, green/red, black/yellow |
| Wire length | 5 ft. (approx.) |
What You'll Learn
Wiring a truck cap third brake light
For a 2016 F-150, for example, you can use the Pacer Performance 3rd Brake Light Logic Module # PP20-702, which has three wires: two yellow wires and a green wire. Tap into your F-150's turn signals with the yellow wires and run the green wire to the third brake light. This module filters out the turn signals and lights up the brake light when you hit the brakes.
For a Ford F-150, nearly all trucks made in 1997 and later have a 2-light taillight system. This can't be easily wired into a 3rd brake light because you need a logic circuit to only turn on the 3rd brake light on your camper shell when the brakes are applied and not flash with either signal light. Fortunately, Ford has included a light green wire in the rear bumper wiring harness for this purpose. This wire comes from the switch on the brake pedal and is meant for mounting a 3rd brake light on a camper/canopy. You will need to run two wires from the camper shell 3rd brake light (a positive and a negative) down to the driver's side of the back of the box where the taillight area is. Solder and fasten a connector that can be quickly disconnected in case you need to remove the canopy.
To locate the light green brake light wire, start at the wire loom coming from the driver's side taillight and follow it from the outside of the vehicle to about 8 inches from where it drops down from the taillight. You'll see an electrical connector where the main harness plugs into the rear harness. Disconnect it and pull the main harness wire down towards the trailer wiring harness on the inside of the frame. You'll see the green wire about 8 inches from the end of the harness, taped back to the main harness. Separate it from the harness and strip the end off, leaving 1/2 inch of bare wire.
Make a two-conductor wiring harness that will go from the hole in the box by the rear taillight down behind the taillight and comes out below the taillight in the frame area. Make it a couple of feet longer than necessary to reach the green wire because you need to find a suitable ground location. Solder the connections and apply heat shrink tubing to seal the splices.
Fish the new connector wire into the hole in the box and down through the back of the taillight (remove the taillight with 8mm bolts). Put a tie-wrap on the new wire so that it doesn't fall into the box hole when you don't have the canopy on the truck and the wire is disconnected.
Strip the wire which will attach to the green brake wire and slip some heat shrink tubing onto the wire. Then twist the bare conductors together. Solder the connection, tape it up with electrical tape, and slide the heat shrink tubing over the joint. Use a match or lighter to seal it.
Locate a suitable grounding spot on the chassis. Strip off about an inch of your new connector ground wire, twist it straight, and apply a good coating of solder so this wire will not corrode. Loosen the bolt with a 15mm or 5/8 socket/ratchet and put your ground wire under the trailer wiring bracket. Tighten it up.
That's it! Your third brake light is now wired and it looks cool and is safer.
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Camper shell wire harness kits
Camper shells, also known as truck caps or toppers, can be easily wired using a wire harness kit. These kits are designed to quickly connect and disconnect your camper shell from your truck. The correct kit for your vehicle depends on the year, make, and model of your truck.
Wire harness kits typically include connectors for dome lights, brake lights, and/or keyless entry systems. For example, the Topper Wire Harness - 4 Prong can be used for both the dome light and the brake light, and it comes with four male wire connectors. The Dome Light Wire Harness Kit (Single Red-Wire) - Short Bed, on the other hand, is designed for trucks with a crew cab 6.9' box or shorter and includes a red wire, conduit, fusible link, and other connectors to connect the dome light wire from the truck topper wire harness to the battery under the hood.
Some kits are designed specifically for certain truck brands and models. For example, the 2 Prong Third Brake Light Wiring Harness - A Kit, Truck Cap Topper | ATC C90-801 is designed for use with 1994-2011 Chevy, 1998-2011 Dodge, 1996-2011 Full Size Ford, 1998-99 Ford Ranger, and others. It features a white plastic quick disconnect.
In addition to the wire harness kits themselves, you may also need to purchase additional components such as fuse boxes, male and female wire end connectors, and lighting fixtures. It's important to refer to the specific instructions and requirements for your vehicle and kit to ensure proper installation.
By using a wire harness kit, you can easily wire your camper shell, adding lighting and other electrical features to enhance your camping experience.
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Tools needed to wire a third brake light
Wiring a third brake light is a straightforward process, and the tools you will need depend on the specifics of your vehicle. Here is a list of tools that are commonly needed when wiring a third brake light:
- A third brake light kit: This kit will include the brake light itself, as well as the necessary wiring and connectors.
- Electrical tape or heat shrink tubing: To insulate and secure wiring connections.
- Soldering iron: For creating secure connections between wires. This is optional, as some prefer to simply twist wires together and cover the splice with electrical tape.
- 12V test light or multimeter: To test for voltage and ensure your wiring is functioning correctly.
- Wire stripper: If you need to do any rewiring, a wire stripper will be necessary to remove insulation from wires.
- Wire disconnectors: Small metal picks or hooks that are used to pop the wire out of the bulb socket.
- Drill with appropriate bits and screws: For creating holes and securing the brake light in place.
- Diagnostic scan tool: This is not essential, but it can be helpful for diagnosing problems with your vehicle's wiring.
It is important to note that you may not need all of these tools for your specific vehicle, and it is always a good idea to consult a professional or a mechanic if you are unsure about the process or the tools you need.
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Wiring a dome light
- Determine Your Power Source: The dome light can be wired directly to the battery or connected to the vehicle's existing wiring harness. If you choose to connect to the battery, you will need a longer wire and additional connectors. This method provides a more direct power source but may be more complex to set up. Connecting to the vehicle's wiring harness typically involves tapping into the turn signals or taillights, which can be more accessible.
- Select the Appropriate Wiring Harness: Choose a wiring harness that is compatible with your camper shell and vehicle. Wiring harnesses come in different configurations, such as 2-prong or 4-prong, and are designed to work with specific makes and models of vehicles. Ensure that the wiring harness you select has the necessary connectors and length to reach your dome light.
- Connect the Wiring Harness: If you are tapping into the vehicle's wiring, identify the correct wires to connect to. Typically, you will need to connect to the right and left stop/turn signals and a 12V power source. Splice or tap into these wires using the appropriate connectors. If connecting directly to the battery, route the wire from the battery to the dome light location.
- Install the Dome Light: Mount the dome light in the desired location, following the manufacturer's instructions. Connect the wires from the wiring harness to the dome light. Ensure that the polarity is correct, typically red for positive and black for negative. Secure all connections with electrical tape or heat shrink tubing.
- Test the Dome Light: Once the wiring is complete, test the dome light by activating the switch or turn signals. Ensure that the dome light illuminates as expected and that there are no loose connections or short circuits.
It is important to note that wiring diagrams and specific steps may vary depending on your vehicle and camper shell setup. Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions and consult a professional if you are unsure about the wiring process.
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Troubleshooting a third brake light
Identify the Problem:
First, determine if the issue is related to the brake light itself or the wiring. Test the light independently by connecting it to a battery. If the light works when directly connected to a power source, the problem likely lies in the wiring or compatibility.
Check the Wiring:
Inspect the wiring for any signs of damage, such as frayed or exposed wires. Ensure that the connections are secure and that there is no corrosion on the terminals.
Verify Power Requirements:
Check the power requirements of the third brake light. Some lights may draw too much power for the brake light circuit to handle, especially if the bulb is an incandescent type. Consider switching to an LED assembly, as they consume less power.
Identify Combined or Separate Tail Lights:
Determine if your vehicle's taillights are combined or separate. In other words, are the stop and turn signals on the same circuit or different ones? This is crucial for understanding how to wire the third brake light correctly.
Utilize a Third Brake Light Module:
If your taillights are combined, you will need a Third Brake Light Module, such as the Pacer Performance 3rd Brake Light Logic Module # PP20-702. This module filters out the turn signals and ensures that the third brake light illuminates only when the brakes are applied.
Connect to the Cab Brake Light:
Another option is to wire the third brake light directly to the cab brake light, which is typically a separate circuit. This bypasses the combined taillight circuit and prevents the third brake light from blinking with the turn signals.
Use a Logic Box:
If wiring directly to the cab brake light is not feasible, you can use a logic box. This device connects to the existing turn signal and brake wires and activates the third brake light without causing it to blink.
Check Vehicle-Specific Requirements:
Brake light wiring may vary depending on the year, make, and model of your vehicle. Ensure that you are using the correct wiring harness and connectors for your specific camper shell and vehicle. Refer to vehicle-specific forums or consult a mechanic for detailed instructions.
Remember to exercise caution when working with electrical systems, and always disconnect the power source before making any wiring changes or inspections.
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Frequently asked questions
You can find a selection of wire harnesses for camper shells online. These include harnesses for Leer, Century, Raider, A.R.E., and other truck toppers.
You can wire a third brake light and a dome light using a 4-prong wiring harness kit. This involves splicing into the green wire at the back of the truck and running the wiring up through the bed post on the driver's side.
There are a few ways to wire a dome light in a camper shell. One way is to run a new lead off the positive battery post. Another way is to tie into the wiring for the cab light. A third option is to use a small battery to power the dome light, which can be charged by tapping into the brake light wiring.
An RCD (residual current device) is a safety device that monitors the flow of current in a circuit. It will cut off the power if it detects an abnormal flow of current, such as when someone touches a live wire. RCDs are important for preventing electrocution in the event of a wiring mistake.
When wiring a camper shell, it is important to use the right tools to ensure safe and effective connections. Use linesman pliers instead of standard pliers to avoid loose connections. A tester is also needed to check the voltage of wires before and after working on them.
