Drywall mud can be used in campers, but it is not a common choice due to weight and rigidity issues. Drywall is much heavier than the paneling typically used in RVs, and the joints in drywall can crack easily when the vehicle moves. However, if you are looking for ways to improve insulation in your camper, drywall mud might be an option worth considering, especially if you do not plan on moving your RV frequently.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Drywall mud weight | 1047 pounds or 1.7 pounds per square foot x 616 square feet |
Drywall mud joint | Will crack almost as soon as the RV is moved |
Drywall mud fasteners | Will pull through the drywall when moved |
Camper walls | Plywood, medium density fiberboard (MDF), or vinyl |
Camper wall thickness | 2-2.5 inches |
Camper wall studs | Spaced irregularly, up to 24-36 inches apart |
What You'll Learn
Drywall mud vs joint compound
Drywall compound, also known as joint compound, is made from a white powder obtained from gypsum dust. This powder is then mixed with water to form a substance known as "mud". While the consistency of this mixture is similar to frosting, it is not edible.
There are four types of drywall compound, each with its own use case: setting compound, all-purpose drywall compound, taping compound, and topping compound. Setting compound, also known as quick-setting compound or "hot mud", is a popular choice for professional contractors as it sets quickly, allowing multiple coats to be applied within a single day. It is ideal for filling in seams and cracks once the drywall is installed. The setting time of this compound varies, ranging from a minimum of 5 minutes to up to 90 minutes.
All-purpose drywall compound is suitable for each type of coating used in drywall installation. However, it is not as strong as other compounds and is therefore not commonly used by professionals for taping and corner finishing. Taping compound, on the other hand, is specifically designed for taping drywall. It is tougher and hardens faster than other compounds, making it a preferred choice for repairing cracks in plaster.
Topping compound is applied as the final coat of mud for drywall to provide a smooth finish and reduce the amount of sanding required. Drywall compounds can come in dry or pre-mixed forms. Dry joint compound allows users to create their own mixture by combining the compound with water, depending on the coat they need to apply. Any unused compound can be stored for later use. Pre-mixed compound, also known as wet compound, saves preparation time as it is ready to be applied to drywall without any mixing. However, it is less popular as it does not provide the same adhesion as dry compound and can spoil and become mouldy if stored after use.
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Drywall sheets and ceiling height
Drywall sheets are available in various sizes, and the right size for your project will depend on the ceiling height and the intended application. The standard size for drywall is 4 feet wide and 8 feet long, and this is the most common option for small and medium construction projects. This size provides the best value per sheet, weighing just over 50 pounds, and can be installed vertically or horizontally.
For taller ceilings, longer drywall sheets are available in lengths of 12 or 16 feet. These sheets can be used to create a smooth, unbroken surface from floor to ceiling without the need for butt joints. However, keep in mind that longer sheets may require more people to help with the installation.
The width of drywall sheets is typically 4 feet, but wider options are available, such as 54-inch-wide panels, which can help minimise seams on walls with higher ceilings.
The thickness of the drywall is another important consideration. The most common thickness for interior residential walls is 1/2 inch, which is easy to carry and hang. Ultralight drywall is also available in this thickness, weighing 12 to 18 pounds less than standard drywall. For ceilings, 5/8-inch drywall is often used to prevent sagging over time. This thickness is also commonly used for walls that require a prescribed fire-resistant rating.
In addition to standard drywall, there are also specialty panels available, such as moisture/mold-resistant, fire-resistant, and impact or abuse-resistant drywall.
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RV wall materials
RV walls usually have three layers: an outer layer that forms the shell, an insulating layer, and an interior layer. The interior layer typically consists of two different materials: walls and ceilings.
RV walls are usually covered in thin plywood or medium-density fiberboard (MDF). Plywood is made from thin layers of wood veneer, with layers placed perpendicular to each other. The layers are treated with resin and glued together under pressure for added strength. It is affordable, costing less than $1 per square foot in the US. It is also straightforward to install, as the sheets are nailed or screwed into studs. It is strong enough to handle shelving, and you can apply wallpaper to it for design flexibility. However, plywood is susceptible to mould and mildew if it gets wet, and it can be challenging to clean.
MDF is made by breaking down hardwood or softwood residuals into fine particles, then combining them with wax and a resin binder, and applying high temperature and pressure. It is less expensive than plywood and widely available. It is also relatively easy to paint and seal. However, MDF is heavy, making installation a two-person job. It is easily damaged, and the damage is permanent as MDF cannot be sanded. While the exterior is water-resistant, the interior wood fibres will swell and mould if exposed to moisture.
In higher-end campers, you may also see vinyl paneling used on the walls. Vinyl is a trendy, cheap, and quick way to transform the inside of your RV. It is easy to install, as it goes over any smooth surface with minimal preparation. However, it is only expected to last around three years.
Another option is shiplap, which brings the real wood look inside the RV and can feel more upscale. It creates solid surfaces that are great for hanging things on the walls. However, shiplap adds significant weight to your RV, with real wood shiplap weighing approximately two pounds per square foot.
RV ceilings typically feature fiberglass-reinforced plastic (FRP) or PVC wall paneling because both materials are lightweight, moisture-resistant, and don't need to be painted.
FRP is a composite material made from a polymer matrix reinforced with fibres. It is incredibly strong and resistant to moisture and water. It is also easy to clean and won't be harmed by chemical cleaners. However, FRP is expensive and requires additional purchases of backer boards and glue. The installation process is lengthy and messy and often requires professional help.
PVC stands for polyvinyl chloride, which has historically been used to create pipes, cables, window profiles, flooring, and roofing due to its durable and lightweight properties. PVC is abrasion-resistant and won't show signs of damage. It is also moisture and water-resistant and is 100% recyclable. PVC panels are cellulose-free, making them insect and termite-resistant. However, PVC can be tricky to paint and requires special supplies. The panels are relatively expensive upfront, but the cost is offset by a simple installation process.
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Repairing outside RV walls
Repairing the outside walls of your RV is a challenging but rewarding task. Here is a comprehensive guide to help you through the process.
Locate the Source of the Leak:
The first step in repairing water damage is to find the source of the leak. Inspect your RV thoroughly, as the leak may be located several feet away from the damaged area. Water damage in walls is often caused by a leak in the roof, leading to water stains on the ceiling and high on the walls. Check for any deterioration near the flooring and, if no leaks are found, move on to inspecting the roof.
Access and Repair the Roof:
Avoid using a manufacturer-installed ladder to access the roof, as there could be structural damage that won't support your weight. Instead, opt for an adjustable and foldable ladder. When inspecting the roof, look for wall and sealing seams, which are usually covered by a J-rail, as these are common areas for breaches. Identify and repair these breeches to prevent further water leaks.
Tear into the Damaged Wall:
Once the leak is sealed, it's time to remove the damaged wall panel. Locate the nearest wall panel seam and remove any floor or ceiling moldings, electrical outlet covers, and switch covers.
Remove the Wall Panels:
RV manufacturers often use building staples or finishing nails to attach wall panels to the studwork. To remove staples, use a flat-head screwdriver by lightly tapping it under the staple and then pulling up. Use pliers to completely remove the staple if necessary. For finishing nails, as you pry the panel, the nails may remain in the studwork, so use the claw side of the hammer to pull them out.
Inspect and Upgrade:
Before replacing the damaged panels, inspect the insulation, wiring, and electrical outlets for any damage or issues. This is also a great opportunity to modernize your RV, especially if it's an older model. Consider replacing fiberglass batting insulation with foam panels, which are easier to work with and less prone to mold. Additionally, inspect electrical outlets and switches for loose wiring or shorts, and consider installing additional outlets for 12-volt wiring, such as USB charging ports.
Replace the Panels:
There are numerous options for replacing RV panels, including wood grain, paintable wood panels, or wallpaper. Consider adding an underlayment of 1/8" plywood to add strength, improve soundproofing, and provide an extra barrier against heat and cold. Use an electric or air nail gun for efficiency and to reduce the risk of damaging the new panels. Always dry fit your panels before attaching them to ensure correct measurements and cutouts for openings.
Remember to be patient, stay safe, and don't hesitate to seek advice from experienced RVers or professionals if needed. Happy camping!
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Ventilating an RV
Understanding the Importance of Ventilation
The confined space of an RV can quickly become stuffy and uncomfortable without proper ventilation. Ventilation serves several essential purposes:
- Fresh Air Quality: Ensuring a constant supply of fresh air is vital for health and wellbeing, especially in a small, enclosed space.
- Moisture Control: Activities like cooking and showering release moisture into the air, leading to condensation and potential mould or mildew issues.
- Temperature Regulation: Ventilation helps regulate the internal temperature, keeping the RV cool in summer and preventing heat escape in winter.
Natural Ventilation Techniques
Maximise natural airflow with these simple methods:
- Strategic Window Opening: Open windows on opposite sides of the RV to create cross-ventilation. This draws in fresh air and expels stale air, keeping the interior comfortable.
- Roof Vents: Install and regularly clean roof vents to act as exhausts for hot air, which naturally rises.
- Shade Parking: Whenever possible, park in a shaded area to reduce the need for air conditioning and encourage natural airflow.
Preventing Condensation
Moisture buildup is a common issue, especially in colder weather. Here's how to tackle it:
- Cooking: Always use an exhaust fan when cooking, or open a nearby window if your RV doesn't have one.
- Showering: Ensure the bathroom is well-ventilated after showering, and consider leaving the door open to dissipate moisture.
- Dehumidifier: Compact RV dehumidifiers can significantly reduce moisture levels, preventing condensation and improving air quality.
- Insulation: Proper insulation helps reduce condensation, especially on windows, and keeps the RV warmer in winter.
Advanced Ventilation Solutions
For more consistent ventilation, consider the following:
- Ceiling Fan: Install a ceiling fan to efficiently circulate air, especially during hot weather.
- Powered Roof Vents: Upgrade to powered roof vents, which can actively move air, unlike passive vents.
- Window Vents or Rain Guards: These allow you to keep windows slightly open for airflow, even during rain.
Combating Excess Heat
Keeping the RV cool during summer travels is a priority:
- Reflective Window Covers: Deflect sunlight and reduce the need for constant air conditioning.
- Portable Fans: Strategically place portable fans to circulate air and ensure consistent cooling.
- Ventilated Bedding: Consider mattresses or toppers designed for airflow, preventing heat buildup during sleep.
Considerations for Winter Travel
Winter brings unique challenges, too:
- Roof Vent Insulators: Prevent heat escape and keep cold air out with roof vent insulators.
- Window Insulation Kits: Add an extra layer to windows to reduce heat loss and prevent cold drafts.
- Foot Vents: Draw in fresh, cool air from outside by placing vents near the floor, pushing warmer air upwards and out.
Safety Tips
While promoting airflow, keep these safety precautions in mind:
- Gas Safety: Ensure proper ventilation when using gas heaters, and regularly inspect for gas leaks.
- Smoke and Carbon Monoxide Detectors: Always keep these devices functional and regularly check their batteries.
- Unobstructed Exits: When ventilating, ensure that emergency exits remain clear and easily accessible.
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Frequently asked questions
Yes, you can put drywall mud in a camper. It can be used to fill in any nail or screw holes, or sections of missing wallpaper or wall.
To dry walls in an RV, ensure proper ventilation by opening windows, doors, and roof vents. Dehumidifiers and fans can also help speed up the process.
Camper walls are usually made of plywood, medium-density fiberboard (MDF), or vinyl.
Yes, you can paint the inside of your camper. Most RV interior walls are made of luan plywood sheets with a wallpaper texture that can be painted over.
Drywall can be used in place of paneling, but it will make the camper much heavier and less structurally rigid. Wallboard joints will also crack as soon as the camper is moved.