Setting Up Water In Your Camper: A Step-By-Step Guide

Setting up a water system in your campervan is a simple process, but it's important to understand the basics. The water system in a campervan is split into three categories: the blue water system, which is the fresh water system; the grey water system, which handles wastewater from activities like washing dishes or taking a shower; and the black water system, which deals with sewage wastewater.

The first step is to decide on the type of water tank you want to install. You can choose between a detachable fresh water tank, which is a low-cost, simple solution that is easy to clean and refill, or a fixed fresh water tank, which offers more storage capacity and can be installed internally or externally. If you opt for a fixed tank, you may need to hire a professional for the installation.

Next, you'll need a water pump to pressurise your water system. You can choose between a manual water pump, a submersible water pump, or an external pressure-sensitive water pump. The manual pump is the simplest option, while the pressure-sensitive pump is the most expensive but offers superior reliability and quiet operation.

Additionally, you'll need to consider how you'll heat the water in your campervan. You can opt for a tankless water heater, which provides on-demand hot water, or a water boiler, which takes longer to heat water but doesn't require the use of gas.

Finally, you'll need to think about the pipes and fittings for your water system. PEX tubing is the most common type of pipe used for campervan water systems as it is cheap, flexible, and easy to install. To connect the pipes, you can use push-to-connect fittings, PEX/barbed fittings, compression fittings, or threaded fittings.

Fresh Water Tank

A camper van's water system is relatively simple to set up and will make your travels much more enjoyable. The fresh water tank is an essential part of the setup, storing the fresh, potable water that will be used for drinking, cooking, washing pots, and showering.

There are two main options for fresh water tanks: detachable and fixed. A detachable tank is a low-cost, simple solution that is small in size and can be removed and filled at any water outlet. However, it has a small storage capacity and will need to be refilled frequently. On the other hand, a fixed tank offers the highest capacity for water storage and can be installed internally or externally. While it provides a more professional install, it may require a plumber and/or vehicle body shop for installation and could affect your vehicle's handling due to the increased weight.

When choosing a fresh water tank, it is important to consider the tank's durability, especially if it will be in transit. Look for a tank that is sufficiently reinforced and can handle the stress of moving. Additionally, the tank should be constructed from non-toxic and BPA-free materials to ensure the water is safe for human consumption.

The size of the fresh water tank will depend on your usage and how many days of autonomy you want before refilling. As a general guideline, consider how much water you will use for activities such as showers and washing dishes, and multiply that by the number of days you want to go without refilling. Remember that water is essential, and having to search for water frequently can be inconvenient.

For filling the fresh water tank, carry a long enough hose (50 feet is recommended) that is lead-free and BPA-free. You can also use a "Water Tank Filler" with an integrated shut-off valve, which allows you to fill the tank without spills and makes the process easier for one person.

To prevent water from coming out of the vent port during braking or when on steep or rough roads, connect a hose to the vent port and install it about 15 inches higher than the tank.

For those who use their camper van in colder climates, insulating your pipes with Armaflex is highly recommended to prevent water from freezing and to keep hot water hotter for longer.

To winterize your fresh water tank, completely drain the tank and, if possible, remove and store the water pump, accumulator, and other appliances indoors. If removal is not possible, blow out the appliances with compressed air to drain them well.

Water Pump

A water pump is an essential component of your camper's water system. The water pump's role is to create and maintain pressure in the system at all times. This means that when you open a faucet, water will come out immediately.

There are a few types of water pumps you can choose from:

• Manual Water Pump: The simplest method to move water through your system is via a manual water pump. The most popular models have a plunger built directly into the tap. Simply pump up and down to commence water flow. This option does not require electricity.
• Submersible Water Pump: A submersible pump is submerged inside your freshwater tank to provide a steady supply of water. The pump is operated via an external 12-volt power supply that connects to an external switch or a specially developed tap with an integrated micro-switch.
• External Pressure Sensitive Water Pump: A pressure-sensitive pump is a water pump with an integral pressure switch. When you activate the device, the pump will slightly pressurise the whole freshwater system. Once an outlet is opened, the pressure switch built into the device will detect the drop in pressure and instantly activate the water pump.

If you are using a diaphragm pump (like the Shurflo Revolution 4008), you might consider adding an accumulator. The accumulator contributes to longer pump life, less noise, less amperage draw, and reduced water pulsation. It also reduces cycling (the pump starts less often).

When choosing a water pump, remember to take into account your usage and how many days of autonomy (without having to fill) you want.

Accumulator

An accumulator is an important part of a pressurised freshwater system for a campervan. It acts as a pressure buffer when fitted close to the water pump outlet. Accumulators work by balancing the water pressure with the freshwater pump delivery.

The accumulator regulates the flow of water to make it smoother, increases the lifespan of your pump, reduces unwanted cycling, and saves battery. It smoothes out water delivery at your points of use, creating a better water usage experience.

The Fiamma A20 Expansion Tank is a good choice for a campervan accumulator. It comes pre-charged to 13.05 psi, but you can adapt the pressure to suit whatever water tank you choose. It will need to be mounted onto the walls with the screws provided, no more than 200mm away from the water pump.

Grey Water Tank

A grey water tank is an essential component of your camper's water system. It is responsible for handling and storing wastewater generated from activities such as washing dishes, taking showers, or any other non-sewage wastewater. Here are some detailed instructions and tips for setting up and maintaining your grey water tank:

Choosing the Right Grey Water Tank

When selecting a grey water tank for your camper, consider the capacity that best suits your needs. Grey water tanks can range in capacity from 5 gallons to over 100 gallons. The size you choose will depend on how much water you estimate you will use and how frequently you want to empty the tank. Additionally, consider the thickness of the tank, which can range from 0.25 inches to 0.375 inches, and the type of fittings you require. You can choose between pre-installed fittings or opt for a blank tank with DIY custom fittings.

Installing the Grey Water Tank

The installation process for a grey water tank will vary depending on the design of your camper and your personal preferences. Some people choose to install the tank underneath their camper, utilizing the space over the wheel wells, while others opt for a tank inside the camper. Consider the available space and the ease of access for emptying the tank when making your decision. You may need to drill holes and use adhesives and hose clamps to secure the tank in place.

Maintaining and Emptying the Grey Water Tank

It is important to empty your grey water tank regularly to avoid backups and overflows. Keep an eye on your sink and shower drainage, as slow drainage or backups can indicate that your grey water tank is full. You can empty the tank at official dump stations found at campgrounds, some gas stations, parks, or fairgrounds. Expect to pay a small fee for this service. To prevent clogging and unpleasant odours, avoid putting harsh chemicals, shampoos, or large food particles down the drain. Use biodegradable soaps and consider installing a P-trap under your sink to trap food particles and prevent them from entering the grey water tank.

Pipes and Fittings

Let’s get straight to the point, PEX tubing is what you want.

PEX tubing has become the standard for houses and RVs.

It’s cheap and readily available in any hardware or RV store.

It comes in red/blue colour to differentiate hot/cold sides (both colours have the same properties).

It resists freezing (but fittings might crack, don’t let it freeze!) and high temperatures.

It’s easy to cut, easy to connect, and easy to route (flexibility: 5″ minimum radius for 1/2″ diameter PEX).

Note that PEX is not UV resistant and should not be installed under constant sun exposure.

PEX tubing can be cut with a carpenter’s knife, but a PEX cutter will make your life easier.

This is the method we recommend for permanent, leak-free connections. It’s easy, fast, fun (yep!) and there is very little chance for error. It’s also good to know that a clamp tool can clamp any ring size (as opposed to crimp). Here is how it goes:

• Insert the clamp ring on the outside of the PEX tubing.
• Insert the barbed fitting into the PEX tubing.
• Using the Clamp Tool, compress the clamp ring. The clamp tool will not release from the clamp ring unless a properly-secured connection has been made; therefore, a GO/NO-GO gauge is not required!

For 3/8" up to 1" rings

Crimping is very similar to clamping; a crimp ring is used instead of a clamp ring. Both methods give equally good results, except a GO/NO-GO gauge has to be used for crimping to ensure the crimp ring was sufficiently deformed. Crimping is the cheapest method for large projects.

The disadvantage with clamp/crimp is that it might be impossible to operate the tool in tight spaces. In that case, you could use Flair-it compression fittings as they require no tool for installation. We personally haven’t tried them, but they’re quite popular in the RV industry. Flair-It fittings come in a variety of shapes and functions:

Push-to-Connect fittings are almost too good to be true. Just push the PEX tubing into the fitting and voilà! …In fact, maybe they are indeed too good to be true. We tried them and when we pressurised the system, many fittings had slow leaks.

Slow leaks are the worst because they’re hard to notice and could create damage in the long run… Why did we have a slow leak? The Sea Tech fittings rely on an O-ring that goes on the outside of the PEX tubing (not inside); the surface of the PEX tubing must be scratch and damage-free. These fittings are “reusable”, but the action of disconnecting creates scratches on the outside surface of the tubing…

O-Rings dry and lose efficiency in the long run.

Some people reported having no issue at all after many years, but we think they are too sensitive to install, to outside tubing surface conditions and to O-ring deterioration. We’re not 100% confident, so we pass (we would be OK with them for temporary repair or outside installation).

For all threaded plastic fittings:

• Do not use Teflon tape or Teflon paste! These are lubricants, not sealants, designed for metal fittings and they will promote over-tightening of plastic fittings = cracks = leaks.
• Don’t over-tighten: finger tighten plus one or two turns.
• Use non-hardening, plastic-safe, non-toxic thread sealant (not lubricant). It’s a paste that does not dry and can be removed easily (not permanent).

We did not use thread sealant on the Shurflo fittings attached to Shurflo appliances (pump & accumulator).

Compatible with plastic fittings (PVC, CPVC, ABS, Nylon). Non-toxic (OK for potable water). Non-hardening. See product info (pdf).

When water turns from liquid into ice, its volume expands by approximately 9%; as a result, any water trapped into a component that freezes will crack said component.

In an RV, it is almost impossible to completely drain the water from everything. The best way to achieve this would be to use an air compressor to blow out the system, but it’s not guaranteed to work… That’s why most people winterise their water system with antifreeze.

Our water system, however, is quite simple; there are few components, and these components are all accessible. So it can be winterised by draining all the water and without adding antifreeze. Empty the water tank completely and, with the pump activated, open each faucet independently (sink, hot shower, bike wash) for a rough “pre-drain”. Disconnect the water pump, the accumulator, the hot shower (Eccotemp), and the bike wash. Water will come out, so have a large bowl and some towels ready! If you can, take all these appliances inside your house for the winter (hey, the removal should only take a few minutes of your time it’s not that bad!). If removing them is not possible, blow out with compressed air to drain them well. Be extra careful with the hot shower (Eccotemp), it’s much harder to drain because of the heat exchanger (we’d really take this one inside the house for the winter..).

Since we usually live full-time in the van and all our components (pipes, water heater, fresh water tank, etc.) are located inside (warm-side), we can use our water system ALL-YEAR, sweet! We even used it when it was -24F (-30°C). We only take the precaution of winterising the bike wash / shower at the back of the van; this area can freeze occasionally (it’s far from any heat source), so we avoid taking any risk and drain it.

15F (-25°C) outside, water still works so we can still do our things!

To increase our chance of finding water while we’re on the road, we carry a neat Water Bandit. It can be fitted on almost any tap (thanks to the rubber side), then a hose can be connected to it (thanks to the “garden-hose-fitting”) on the other side. We're using it occasionally.

Following this post, many of you recommended we get a Sillcock Key. Apparently, this tool can open water supplies at some rest areas, campgrounds, corner stores, etc. After a few years on the road, we actually only used it once, but we're happy we had it!

Frequently asked questions