Mastering Antifreeze Ratios For Camper Trap Maintenance

When winterizing an RV, the amount of antifreeze needed depends on the size of the camper. Most RVs use roughly 2-4 gallons of antifreeze, including what goes down the sinks to ensure any remaining water in the P-traps doesn't freeze. Some campers use less than 2 gallons, while others use up to 6 gallons. It is recommended to pour 1-2 cups of antifreeze down each sink and another 2-4 quarts into the toilet.

How much antifreeze to put in camper traps: 1-2 cups in sinks, 2-4 quarts in the toilet

When preparing your camper for winter, it's important to drain the plumbing system, as even a little water left in pipes, faucets, valves, or pumps can freeze, expand, and split. To prevent this, you can either blow out the system with compressed air or fill the system with RV antifreeze. If you choose the latter method, you'll need to know how much antifreeze to use in each part of your camper.

First, it's important to note that the amount of antifreeze you'll need depends on the size of your camper. Most RVs use roughly 2-4 gallons of RV antifreeze, including what goes down the sinks to fill the P-traps. For sinks, it is recommended that you pour 1-2 cups of antifreeze down each drain. For your RV toilet, you can pour 2-4 quarts of antifreeze into the bowl and then flush the toilet to leave a small amount in your black tank. This can prevent the freezing of residual waste and save you from having to unclog your black tank in the spring.

In addition to the sinks and toilet, you'll also want to put antifreeze in your grey and black water tanks to protect the drain valves and seals. Pour one quart of special RV antifreeze into each of these tanks.

How to blow out water lines with compressed air: adjust air compressor to no more than 30 psi, then connect to the blow-out plug

To blow out water lines with compressed air, you'll need to follow a few important steps to ensure the process is safe and effective. Here's a detailed guide:

Step 1: Prepare the necessary equipment

Before you begin, gather the required equipment: an air compressor, an air hose, and, if needed, an adapter to connect the air hose to the water system. Ensure your air compressor can deliver at least 50 PSI (pounds per square inch) of pressure, with a higher capacity being more effective for larger pipes. Additionally, make sure your air hose is long enough to comfortably reach your connections. Safety gear, such as goggles and gloves, is also essential to protect yourself from any sudden sprays of water or debris.

Step 2: Adjust the air compressor

Set the air compressor to the appropriate PSI level. For this specific task, adjust the air compressor to no more than 30 PSI to avoid damaging the water lines. This lower pressure setting is crucial to ensure you don't accidentally crack or damage the pipes.

Step 3: Connect the air compressor to the blow-out plug

Now, you'll connect the air compressor to the water system. First, turn off the water supply to the lines you're working on and open a few faucets or sprinkler heads to relieve any pressure and drain as much water as possible. Then, attach the air hose to the compressor, and connect the other end of the hose to the blow-out plug. Double-check that all connections are tight and secure to avoid any air leaks.

Step 4: Blow out the water lines

It's now time to turn on the air compressor and begin blowing out the water lines. Start with the farthest point from the compressor connection and work your way back. Open one zone or faucet at a time to ensure all water is expelled. Monitor the pressure and flow by keeping an eye on the pressure gauge and listening to the sound of the air flowing through the pipes. When you hear only air and no more water coming out, that section is clear. Move through each zone or section until all lines are clear, taking your time to ensure a thorough blowout.

Step 5: Final checks and safety precautions

Always wear your safety gear when working with compressed air. After you've blown out all the lines, double-check to ensure no water remains in the system. Compressed air can be dangerous if not handled properly, so it's crucial to take your time and prioritize safety throughout the process.

Antifreeze in camper traps

Regarding your camper traps, it's important to note that the amount of antifreeze needed can vary depending on your setup. Some people use a couple of gallons, while others use around a gallon or less. It's recommended to pour about a pint of antifreeze into the toilet bowl to protect the flush valve and seals. Additionally, pour one quart of special RV antifreeze into the gray and black tanks to protect the drain valves and seals. This process will also result in some antifreeze traveling into the pipe traps.

Antifreeze vs. compressed air: antifreeze is more reliable but takes longer to flush out in spring

When it comes to preparing your camper for winter, you have two options: using compressed air or antifreeze to prevent your pipes from freezing and bursting. While both methods are viable, antifreeze is generally more reliable, but it does have a longer flush-out period in the spring.

Compressed Air

Compressed air is a popular choice for those who want a quick, easy, and relatively mess-free way to winterise their camper. It involves using an air compressor to blow out all the water from your pipes, reducing the risk of freezing and pipe bursts. This method also has the advantage of being more environmentally friendly, as it minimises the use of chemicals.

However, one of the drawbacks of compressed air is that it can be challenging to ensure that every last drop of water has been removed from the system. Even a small amount of residual water can freeze and cause damage. Additionally, compressed air may not be as effective in reaching and protecting low-lying areas of the plumbing, such as fittings and elbows, which are more vulnerable to freezing and cracking.

Antifreeze

Antifreeze, on the other hand, offers a more reliable solution by completely replacing the water in your plumbing system with a liquid that has a much lower freezing point. This method ensures that your pipes, valves, and fixtures are protected, even if the temperature drops to extremely low levels. Antifreeze is particularly useful for those living in areas with extremely cold winters or for campers with complex plumbing systems.

The main disadvantage of antifreeze is the time and effort required to flush it out of the system in the spring. It can take multiple flushes to completely remove all traces of antifreeze, and until this is done, your camper's water may have an unpleasant taste or smell. Antifreeze is also more expensive, and there is a slight risk of it damaging your water pump if not used correctly.

While both methods have their pros and cons, antifreeze is generally the more reliable option for winterising your camper, especially if you live in an area with extremely cold winters. However, it does require more time and effort to flush out in the spring, whereas compressed air is quicker and easier but may not provide the same level of protection against freezing. Ultimately, the best method for you will depend on your specific needs and the climate you operate in.

Disposing of antifreeze: pour into a dump station, septic tank, residential sewer clean-out, or portable RV waste tank

Antifreeze is toxic and should never be poured down the drain, toilet, or sewer. Even antifreeze labelled 'biodegradable' should be disposed of properly. If you are disposing of antifreeze, pour it into a dump station, septic tank, residential sewer clean-out, or portable RV waste tank. If you cannot move your RV to one of these locations, use a portable RV waste tank and then transport the tank to one of the aforementioned locations to dispose of it properly.

Make sure to transport old antifreeze in sealed, plastic containers that are well secured in your car trunk or pickup bed. Label each container with the date, the brand of coolant, and the coolant's chemical disposal contents (if you know it). If your antifreeze is tainted with gas, oil, or heavy metals, indicate that on the label, too. Only pure antifreeze can be recycled; tainted antifreeze must be managed as hazardous waste.

Your state's Department of Waste Management website will list guidelines and centres for recycling or disposing of antifreeze. Locate a convenient recycling or disposal site and call to ask how to contain and document used antifreeze. If the antifreeze is tainted with oil or gas, it is considered contaminated and cannot be recycled. In this case, search the website for hazardous chemical disposal.

Antifreeze is non-toxic for plumbing but harmful to humans and animals if consumed

When preparing an RV for winter, it is important to drain the plumbing system to prevent pipes, faucets, valves, or pumps from freezing, expanding, and splitting. This can be done by blowing out the system with compressed air or by filling the system with RV antifreeze.

RV antifreeze is essential to protect your camper's plumbing from freezing temperatures. It is a liquid with a much lower freezing point than water and is available in various colours, including pink. Most RV antifreeze solutions are either ethanol or propylene glycol-based. While both options lower the solution's freezing point, propylene glycol also raises the solution's boiling point.

Propylene glycol-based RV antifreeze is non-toxic for plumbing systems and holding tanks. However, it is crucial to completely flush the antifreeze and sanitise your RV's fresh water system when de-winterising. Improper disposal of RV antifreeze can harm plants and animals.

On the other hand, ethylene glycol-based antifreeze is highly toxic to both humans and animals, even in small amounts. It has a sweet taste, making it appealing to pets and children. Ingesting ethylene glycol can cause severe kidney damage and even death. Therefore, it is essential to keep antifreeze out of the reach of children and pets and to seek immediate veterinary attention if your pet consumes any antifreeze.

The amount of antifreeze required for each camper trap depends on the size of your RV. For the grey and black tanks, it is recommended to pour in one quart of RV antifreeze to protect the drain valves and seals. For sinks, it is suggested to pour in 1-2 cups, and for the toilet, 2-4 quarts can be added before flushing to leave a small amount in the black tank. Overall, most RVs use roughly 2-4 gallons of RV antifreeze, including what is used for the traps and tanks.

Frequently asked questions