Building A Cozy Canned Ham Camper: A Step-By-Step Guide

how to build a canned ham camper

Building your own canned ham camper is a fun and challenging project. With the right tools and materials, you can create a stylish, functional, and durable camper that is also surprisingly lightweight. You can build a camper for a fraction of the cost of a commercial one, and all it takes is some dedication, a garage, and a few thousand dollars for materials. The process involves designing and constructing a sturdy frame, insulating and sealing it, and then adding essential features like windows, doors, plumbing, and electrical wiring. It is a detailed and meticulous process, but the end result is a unique and personalised camper, ready to take on the road.

Characteristics Values
Length 12-18 ft
Height 7'5"
Width 6'3"
Weight 1200 lbs
Sleeping Capacity 2-4 people
Features Full-size bed, shelves, counter, portable stove, foot pump sink, emergency toilet, dinette, propane space heater, windows, storage compartments
Materials Plywood, spruce, pine, aluminium sheeting, aluminium skin, steel chassis, carriage bolts, deck screws, hardwood studs, wood panelling, insulation
Cost $4500

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Design and materials

The design and materials for a canned ham camper will depend on your budget, the level of comfort you want, and how you plan to use it. A new aluminium trailer is the best option if your budget allows for it, but an old steel trailer can be restored if you have more time than money.

The trailer should be durable, lightweight, and easy to tow. A low centre of gravity is important, and this can be achieved with an aluminium-sheathed body on a channel steel chassis. The floor unit, or deck, is constructed with a "sandwich" of framing and insulation board, bolted to the chassis. The floor should be sturdy and well-sealed, as it will form the base for the rest of the structure.

The walls can be made from plywood, with pine framing for added strength. Birch plywood is a good option, and the curved edges can be reinforced with laminated framing. The walls should be cut to fit the shape of the floor unit, with openings for doors and windows. Windows should be able to provide ventilation, and magnetic privacy coverings are a good option.

The roof should be lightweight but sturdy, with hardwood studs and wood panelling, and insulation between the ribs. The exterior of the camper can be covered with aluminium sheeting, cut to size and secured with nails or screws.

The interior of the camper should be well-insulated and include essential features such as a bed, storage, counter space, and a simple plumbing system. A portable stove can be used for cooking, and a foot pump can be installed for the sink, with greywater draining into a jug or outside. A cooler can be used for food storage instead of a refrigerator.

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Building an insulated bed

The bed in your canned ham camper should be both comfortable and insulated to keep you warm and cosy. Here are some steps to achieve this:

Materials:

  • Plywood
  • Insulation (e.g. polystyrene foam board, fibreglass)
  • Aluminium skin or other exterior covering
  • Bolts
  • Glue
  • Nails
  • Upholstery
  • Mattress

Steps:

  • First, you need to build a sturdy frame for your bed. Using plywood, cut the pieces to size and shape, ensuring they will fit snugly inside your camper. Remember to account for the thickness of your insulation and exterior skin when measuring.
  • Assemble the plywood frame, using glue and nails to secure the joints.
  • Next, you'll want to insulate the bed frame to keep the cold out. Measure and cut your chosen insulation material to fit the walls and base of the frame. For maximum warmth, consider using a thicker insulation or a double layer.
  • Attach the insulation to the frame, ensuring there are no gaps. Polystyrene boards can be glued in place, while fibreglass insulation will need to be applied with appropriate safety gear and techniques.
  • Now, it's time to cover your insulated frame. Cut aluminium sheeting to size, ensuring it overlaps the frame by at least an inch all the way around. Secure the aluminium skin with nails or bolts, creating a smooth, seamless finish.
  • If you prefer a softer look, you can cover the aluminium with a layer of thin plywood, attaching it in the same way. This can be varnished or painted to your desired colour.
  • Finally, add upholstery and a comfortable mattress. Consider using fabric with a moisture-resistant backing to protect your bed frame from condensation.

Your insulated bed is now ready for a good night's sleep, even in chilly weather!

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Shaping and hanging walls

For this step, you will need 4x8 pieces of plywood and 1x4 pine boards to frame the walls. You will also need a piece of string, a nail, a pencil, and a jigsaw to cut the plywood.

Start by sketching the arch for the walls using the string, nail, and pencil. It is important to take your time with this step to ensure that the lines are straight and even. Once you are happy with the sketch, use the jigsaw to cut the arch out of the first wall. Sand the edge of this first wall, and then use it as a template to mark the second wall. This ensures that both walls are identical and will fit together perfectly.

After cutting both walls, clamp them together and sand the edges to make them as smooth and flush as possible. This step is crucial to ensure the walls fit together seamlessly. Once you are satisfied with the walls, it is time to hang them on the base. This part of the build process is challenging, as the walls are built in place. It may be easier to build the walls separately before hanging them, including adding the electrical wiring, insulation, and skins.

It is worth noting that the Honorbilt 15 Foot Canned Ham trailer used 3/16-inch birch plywood reinforced with laminated framing on the curved edges and solid members on the straight portions. The plywood was nailed onto a rough wooden form of fixed blocks to hold the laminated and straight members in place.

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Framing the roof

The roof is a pretty simple process. Start by ripping some hardwood studs down to a 1.5x1" rib. Install these ribs every 6-12 inches, placing them closer together where joints will be and in the curved sections of the roof. Apply the wood panelling from the inside, bowing it outwards, then glue and clamp it into place. Before covering the roof, add insulation between the ribs.

For the roof covering, I used aluminium sheeting. I found that the best way to cut the aluminium was with a roto-zip sawblade on a Ryobi cutter. Initially, I tried using a router bit, but the molten aluminium clogged the bit. The roto zip blades are cheap and easy to replace—I changed them every 4 feet of cutting.

The .032 ga. aluminium skin can be put on before you finish the inside cabinets. Cut the aluminium to the right size to join over the front and rear crossbeams, leaving a 1-inch lap, and secure it with binding head screws. First, bend the edges 1/2 inch with a brake and nail them to the curved sides. This will buckle in places, but you can flatten it with a hammer, and it will be covered with a rain gutter later. On the roof, crimp and calk the joints with Kool Seal mastic, as well as the edges of the roof vent.

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Plumbing and electrics

The plumbing and electrics in your canned ham camper are essential to consider when building. The plumbing will be a simple system, with minimal parts to break. The sink will use a foot pump, with water draining to either a grey water jug or outside via a spigot with a simple twist of a valve. The entire system can be replaced in minutes if needed.

The electrical work will be more complex, and it is important to plan the wiring and placement of electrical components carefully. The electrical system can be hooked up at the end by wiring everything together. This may include setting up a battery bank and power converters with solar panels to provide electricity.

For the vintage Honorbilt 15-foot Canned Ham camper, the electrical system includes a gas light and a hooded electric light over the sink and bed. There is also an outlet for 110-V current above the sink for a toaster or other equipment. Gas is supplied to the stove from a butane bottle.

The plumbing in the vintage Honorbilt camper includes a water storage tank and hand pump, with water and electric utility connections. The sink has a Formica top and a hand pump, which supplies water from the tank under the bed, and a tap for utility connection. Copper tubes lead from the water tank to the sink and outside connection.

It is important to consider the placement of electrical components and wiring during the building process, as it will be more difficult to make changes later.

Frequently asked questions

The cost of materials for building a canned ham camper is approximately $4500.

Building a canned ham camper requires several weekends of work.

A canned ham camper typically has an interior cabin measuring 12 feet long, 6 feet high, and 6'3" wide, and an exterior height of 7'5"full-size bed, storage shelves, a counter, a portable stove, a foot pump sink, an emergency toilet, a dinette that converts to a bed, a propane space heater, and opening windows for ventilation and light.

You can find vintage canned ham camper plans and instructions from sources like RedStoneProjects.com, CamperPlans.com, and Instructables.com. These sources provide detailed steps, materials lists, and tips for the building process.

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