Fixing Your Camper Refrigerator: Diy Troubleshooting Guide

how to fix camper refrigerator

Camper refrigerators, also known as RV absorption refrigerators, operate differently from residential fridges as they don't have a compressor or refrigerant to cool their contents. This over-a-century-old technology requires more attention, care, and understanding of its operation to maximise performance. Common issues include food not staying at safe temperatures and the unit not turning on. This article will provide troubleshooting tips to help you fix your camper refrigerator and get it running smoothly again.

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Understanding power sources

Camper refrigerators are not the same as the one you have at home. They run on the absorption principle, which means they don't use any moving parts to cool. They can run on propane, electricity, and DC battery. Most modern refrigerators in campers run on a combination of propane and electricity.

Two-Way Refrigerators

These fridges use propane and AC power. They use a mixture of hydrogen gas, ammonia, and water to stay cool. When these compounds heat up inside the evaporator, they go through a process of evaporation and condensation. This process allows your fridge to stay cool.

Three-Way Refrigerators

These refrigerators use DC power in addition to propane and AC power. DC power means electricity runs in one direction, rather than reversing the current. With AC power, the electricity constantly reverses direction.

Troubleshooting Power Sources

If your fridge runs on propane but not electricity, you have electrical issues. Check the 120-volt AC current, fuses, and circuit breakers at the back of your refrigerator. If the fuses and circuit breakers are all in order, check your refrigerator's outlet. Try plugging in another electronic device to see if it works.

If your fridge runs on electricity but not propane, investigate all propane-related systems. Make sure you're not running low on fuel and check if the valves have accidentally been shut off.

Solar Power

Solar panels can be used to power camper refrigerators, but a lot of solar power is needed to do so reliably. Panels rarely put out their full wattage and never for more than 6 hours a day. If you plan to use solar power, you will likely need a lot of solar panels and batteries to store the energy.

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Control panel issues

If the control panel on your camper refrigerator is not working, there are several things you can try. Firstly, check if the control panel is locked. Most refrigerator control panels have a "Child Lock" feature that can be activated by pressing the "Child Lock" button for 3 to 5 seconds. If the control panel is locked, simply unlock it by pressing the button again for the same amount of time.

If the control panel is not locked, the next step is to check the power supply. Ensure that the refrigerator is plugged into a functioning electrical outlet and that the outlet is supplying power. Check fuses or the circuit breaker if necessary. It is recommended to have the refrigerator on a separate dedicated circuit. Additionally, if the refrigerator is connected to a ground fault receptacle, try plugging it into a regular receptacle as the use of a ground fault receptacle is not recommended for refrigerators.

If the power supply is functioning properly and the control panel is still not working, the issue could be related to the dispenser control board, display board, or user control and display board. To determine the cause, try pressing the buttons on the control panel. If some buttons work while others do not, the display board or user control and display board may need to be replaced. Check the power supply to these boards, and if they have power but are not working, they will need to be replaced.

If none of the control panel buttons are working, the main control board may be malfunctioning. However, this is rarely the cause of the problem. Before replacing the main control board, it is recommended to check all the dispenser components first. If none of the dispenser components are defective, then consider replacing the main control board.

If you are unsure about how to proceed or are uncomfortable with performing these checks and replacements yourself, it is best to contact a professional technician for assistance.

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Cooling sources

RV absorption refrigerators require a combination of power sources to operate. These include 12-volt direct current (DC) to run the control panels and either propane or 120-volt alternating current (AC) power to cool the refrigerator. Some RV refrigerators also offer a third 12-volt option.

If your control panel isn't working, check your coach battery, which powers the fridge controls. Ensure the battery disconnect switch is engaged and the battery is fully charged. If not, this could be the source of your cooling problem.

If you're using propane to cool your refrigerator, you may be able to hear the ignition and see or hear the flame in the burner assembly area when you open the lower exterior refrigerator access panel.

To check if your 120-volt AC power system is working, confirm that other appliances running off this power source are operative. You can also place a thermometer inside the fridge to monitor its temperature as it begins to cool.

If your fridge works on propane but not electricity, you can rule out a problem with the cooling coils or the 12-volt DC coach battery. In this case, the issue lies somewhere in the 120-volt AC chain. Check the circuit breaker in the electrical panel box to ensure it hasn't tripped, and make sure the power cord is plugged into its dedicated outlet in the exterior lower access panel.

If your fridge works on electricity but not propane, you can rule out a problem with the cooling coils or the 12-volt DC power source. Here, the issue lies in the propane chain. Check the propane level on your tank and ensure the service valve is open. If you're still having trouble, you may be experiencing a propane lockout, which can be resolved by turning off all propane-fuelled appliances inside the RV, turning off the service valve at the propane tank, waiting a few minutes, and turning it back on.

How to Identify Your Camper's Model

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Circuit breakers

If your circuit breaker keeps tripping, it might be because the circuit is overloaded. Most kitchen, laundry, and bathroom appliances run on a lot of electrical power. These appliances are likely on the same circuit and could cause an overload when running simultaneously.

To test for a circuit overload, turn off the breaker and unplug all electrical devices and appliances in the area. Wait a few minutes, then switch the breaker back on. Turn the devices on one by one and wait a few seconds to see if the circuit breaker trips. If the circuit is overloaded, a simple solution is to adjust power usage in that area. For example, you may be able to move some appliances so they are on a separate circuit.

If you have a camper refrigerator that is tripping the circuit breaker, it could be a problem with the outlet and its wiring, an issue with the circuit, or a problem with a faulty defrost timer, control board, or compressor's capacitor.

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Airflow

Firstly, be mindful of how you pack your fridge. Overpacking the interior with food or adding warm leftovers can hinder airflow and impact the cooling process. Ensure you don't obstruct the fridge's vents or airflow pathways by overloading the fridge. If airflow is an issue, consider investing in an aftermarket internal fan to improve circulation.

Secondly, regularly inspect the fridge door seals for any gaps that might let warm air in. Camper refrigerators can struggle to maintain safe temperatures in extreme conditions, and a tight seal is crucial to preventing warm air from entering and cold air from escaping. Check for any signs of wear or damage on the seals, and replace them if necessary.

Thirdly, exterior airflow is just as important as interior airflow. Ensure the exterior fridge access compartment is clear of any obstructions. Air should flow freely from the lower access panel area, up the backside of the fridge, and over the condenser coils. Keep this area clear of debris, nests, or any other blockages that could impede airflow. Some RVs may have a baffle to direct air over the condenser coils, so ensure it is clean and functioning correctly.

Finally, don't forget to check the drip tube. Ensure the cap is in place, as an open drip tube can allow warm air to enter the refrigerator compartment, affecting the internal temperature. By following these airflow tips, you can help ensure your camper refrigerator maintains optimal temperatures and keeps your food fresh and safe.

Frequently asked questions

Camper refrigerators require a combination of power sources to operate. First, check if the control panel is working. If it isn't, check the coach battery, battery disconnect switch, and battery charge. The issue could also be a blown fuse in the 12-volt DC panel.

In this case, the problem lies in the 120-volt AC chain. Check the circuit breaker in the electrical panel box to ensure it hasn't tripped. Also, ensure the power cord for the fridge is plugged into its dedicated outlet in the exterior lower access panel.

Absorption refrigerators can take up to 8 hours to cool after start-up, so plan to turn them on a day before loading them. If it's still not cold enough, check the temperature control settings. Your RV refrigerator might have a control panel on the front that can adjust the temperature. If there is no control panel, the temperature is likely controlled by a thermistor, which is a piece of plastic clipped to the metal fins on the back wall of the fridge interior. Move the thermistor clip in the direction that you want the temperature to go.

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