Electric Brakes On Your Camper: Troubleshooting And Repair Guide

Electric brakes on a camper can malfunction due to a variety of issues, from electrical system failure to worn-out parts. Troubleshooting electric brakes requires tools like voltmeters and ammeters. Mechanical issues are usually obvious, such as broken or bent parts, worn linings or magnets, or scored drums. Corrosion in plugs, short circuits, and poor electrical connections are also common problems. Adjusting trailer brakes is necessary to ensure optimal performance and prevent unnecessary wear. This involves securing and jacking up the trailer, removing adjuster plugs, locating adjustment screws, and spinning the wheel to start adjusting. For new brakes, a break-in process is required to seat the brake shoes and magnet into the drum. Proper maintenance and choosing the right trailer brake parts can help reduce brake noise and ensure a peaceful camping experience.

Check for faulty or worn parts

When troubleshooting your electric camper brakes, it is important to check for faulty or worn parts. Most malfunctions can be traced to electrical system failure or mechanical causes. Mechanical issues are usually obvious, such as bent or broken parts, worn-out linings or magnets, seized lever arms or shoes, scored drums, or loose parts.

To check for electrical system failure, you will need tools like voltmeters and ammeters. You can measure the voltage by connecting the voltmeter to the two magnet lead wires at any brake. With the engine of the towing vehicle running, the voltage should begin at 0 volts and gradually increase to about 12 volts as the controller bar is slowly actuated. If the controller does not produce this voltage control, consult your controller manual.

You can also measure amperage, which is the current flowing in the system when all the magnets are energised. To do this, disconnect the BLUE wire of the controller, which is the output to the brakes, and put the ammeter in series into the line. Make sure your ammeter has sufficient capacity and note polarity to prevent damage.

If you find that your camper brakes are squeaking, this could be due to surface rust or glaze forming on the shoes or pads. Dew or rain can cause enough slip for glazed pads or shoes to squeal, and this should go away after driving and braking several times. Rust on friction surfaces will also cause a grinding or squealing sound until a few firm braking actions knock off the loose debris. To prevent this, keep your camper in a garage with climate control, as high humidity can cause rust on metal brake parts.

If you have drum brakes, they may need lubrication at the shoe and backing plate contact points, which will cause a high-pitched squeal if dry metal is rubbing together. In this case, use a commercial-grade lubricant or high-temperature wheel bearing grease on the contact points.

Test for electrical system failure

To test for electrical system failure in your camper's electric brakes, you can use a voltmeter, ammeter, or multimeter. Here are the steps you can follow:

• Check the Controller: Start by checking the controller for any faults. If there are no issues with the controller, move on to checking for wiring problems and shorts within the brake magnets.
• Test Voltage: Measure the voltage at the magnets by connecting the voltmeter to the two magnet lead wires at any brake. Ensure the engine of the towing vehicle is running during this test to prevent low battery interference. The voltage should start at 0 volts and gradually increase to about 12 volts as the controller bar is slowly actuated.
• Check Threshold Voltage: The threshold voltage is the voltage applied when the controller first turns on. If it's too low, your brakes may not respond as they should, and if it's too high, they may feel grabby and harsh.
• Test Amperage: To measure system amperage, you can disconnect the BLUE wire of the controller (which is the output to the brakes) and put the ammeter in series into the line. Make sure your ammeter has sufficient capacity and note polarity to prevent damage. The system amperage will vary based on the number of brakes you have:

• For trailers with 2 brakes: 7.5 - 8.2 Amps
• For trailers with 4 brakes: 15.0 - 16.3 Amps
• For trailers with 6 brakes: 22.6 - 24.5 Amps

• Identify Common Electrical Problems: The most common electrical issues include low or no voltage and amperage at the brakes, often caused by poor electrical connections, open circuits, insufficient wire size, broken wires, blown fuses, or faulty controllers. Another issue could be shorted or partially shorted circuits, indicated by abnormally high system amperage, which may be due to shorted magnet coils, defective controllers, or bare wires contacting a grounded object.
• Locate Short Circuits: To find the cause of a short circuit, isolate one section at a time. If unplugging the trailer results in the high amperage reading dropping to zero, the short is in the trailer. If the amperage remains high with all brake magnets disconnected, the short is in the trailer wiring.
• Use a Multimeter: Set your multimeter to Ohms and place the negative probe on one of the brake magnet wires, and the positive probe on the other magnet wire. If the reading is below or above the specified resistance range for your brake magnet size, the brake likely needs to be changed.
• Test Individual Brakes: To test individual brakes, set your multimeter to measure amperage. Place the negative probe on any wire and the positive probe on the positive terminal of your battery. Then, place the brake magnet on the negative battery post. If you get any ampere reading, there is an internal short, and the brake magnet needs to be replaced.
• Check Wiring and Connections: If the above tests indicate issues, check individual brakes for problems, including loose wires and corroded connections. Ensure all connections are tight and free of corrosion.

Adjust brake settings

Adjusting your electric trailer brakes is a necessary task to ensure they do not drag, drawing unnecessary power and wearing them down faster. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to adjust your electric trailer brakes:

Step 1: Secure and Jack Up Trailer

Chock your trailer wheels to prevent the trailer from rolling away. Use a jack to lift the trailer high enough so that the wheel you are starting with can spin freely. Ensure you follow the manufacturer's specifications and use jack stands to securely support the trailer to prevent accidents.

Step 2: Remove Adjuster Plug and Locate Adjustment Screw

On the backside of your brake assembly, located at the bottom, you will find the adjuster plugs. Remove these plugs with a screwdriver or pliers. Inside, you will find the adjustment screw, which looks like a gear with teeth. Depending on which side of the trailer you are on, the screw could be behind either plug.

Step 3: Spin Wheel and Start Adjusting

Spin the trailer's wheel or drum, and while it is spinning, place your screwdriver or adjustment spoon on one of the ridges. Start moving the tool upwards so that the adjuster's teeth move away from you. This action will expand the brake shoes and create more drag.

Continue moving the adjuster until turning the wheel becomes difficult. Then, start spinning the wheel in the opposite direction and gradually back off on the adjustment until you feel only a slight drag or resistance. It is crucial to have a little resistance to prevent the brakes from locking up, but not too much.

Repeat this process on all remaining brake assemblies, ensuring that all adjustments are consistent.

Step 4: "Break-In" New Brakes (For New Brakes Only)

If you are installing new brakes, this additional step is necessary to "break-in" the brakes. This process applies to both manual adjusting and self-adjusting electric brakes. It is essential to ensure that the brake shoes and magnet properly seat into the drum.

Drive your trailer to an open area, such as an empty parking lot. Set your brake controller to a middle or high setting to ensure the brakes will fully engage when activated. Accelerate to around 40 mph, and then engage the manual override on your brake controller.

Do not apply the brake pedal during this step; instead, rely solely on the trailer brakes to slow down both the trailer and the towing vehicle to approximately 20 mph. Then, accelerate back up to 40 mph and repeat this process. It typically takes 20-30 repetitions to properly seat new trailer brakes. After completing the process, your brakes should be very hot and may even emit a bit of smoke, which is normal.

By following these steps, you will be able to adjust your electric trailer brakes effectively, ensuring optimal performance and prolonging their lifespan.

Break in new brakes

Electric brakes are a relatively new technology, and while they offer many benefits, there are some challenges to consider when breaking in new brakes. Here are some detailed instructions and tips to help you through the process:

Understanding Electric Brakes

Firstly, it's important to understand how electric brakes work. Unlike traditional hydraulic brakes, electric brakes utilise electrical signals and magnetism to engage the brake pads and bring your camper to a stop. This process involves sensors that detect how hard the brake pedal is pressed, control modules that interpret the sensor data, and control units that determine the necessary stopping force. The system then instructs actuators to apply the appropriate force to the brake pads and discs, resulting in a quick and precise response.

Initial Checks

Before taking your camper on the road, it's crucial to perform a thorough inspection of the braking system. Ensure that all components are securely attached and show no signs of damage. Check the brake fluid reservoir's level and look for any leaks. Find an open, safe area free from traffic and pedestrians to conduct a road test. Start by driving at a slow speed of around 10-15 mph and gently apply the brakes. Observe how the camper responds. Does it slow down smoothly and evenly? Are there any unusual noises or vibrations? Repeat this process a few times, gradually increasing your speed, to ensure optimal brake performance.

Adjust Brake Controller Settings

If you find that your camper is not braking effectively or pulls to one side when braking, you may need to adjust the brake controller settings. Refer to the instructions provided with your specific brake controller model to make the necessary adjustments. Typically, you will need to adjust the gain and sensitivity settings to ensure the brakes respond appropriately to the vehicle's momentum and your input as the driver.

Test Different Braking Scenarios

It's important to test your camper's braking capabilities in various situations. In addition to the initial road test, try the following:

• Emergency Braking: Find a safe, open area and build up to a higher speed, such as 40-50 mph. Firmly apply the brakes and observe the trailer's response. The camper should slow down in a controlled manner without veering to one side.
• Downhill Braking: Find a gentle downhill slope and drive down at a moderate speed. Apply the brakes and note how the braking system adjusts to the downhill momentum. Ensure the camper slows down smoothly without the brakes locking up or causing skidding.

Final Checks and Maintenance

After completing your road tests, perform a final inspection of the braking system. Check for any signs of overheating, unusual wear, or damage to any components. Ensure proper contact between the brake pads or shoes and the drums or rotors, and verify that there is no excessive wear. Remember to consult a professional or mechanic if you encounter any issues or need further guidance.

Check for lubrication issues

Lubrication issues are a common problem with camper brakes, and can cause them to stick or overheat, leading to costly bearing or component failures, or even safety issues. To prevent these issues, it is important to properly lubricate your trailer.

One of the most reliable solutions for trailer lubrication is to install an automatic lubrication system, such as Graco's Grease Jockey pneumatic trailer pump, which works with the parking or service brake lube points. This eliminates the need for electrical power from the trailer. The pump is designed to mount to the bogie with a universal mounting bracket, making it easily accessible for refilling and monitoring the grease level. It also protects the pump from flying road debris.

An important safety feature of the Grease Jockey trailer lubrication system is the slack adjuster and S-cam lubrication, which help prevent the brakes from sticking. This improves brake operation and extends the life of the components.

For drum brakes, it is recommended to use a commercial-grade lubricant, such as Moly Paste 60, on the contact points, or a high-temperature wheel bearing grease. This will help to prevent a high-pitched squeal caused by dry metal rubbing together.

If you notice that your electric brakes are getting too hot during driving, it may be necessary to manually adjust the brake drums. This is because electric brake drums, unlike regular car brakes, do not adjust automatically.

Frequently asked questions