Winterizing Your Camper Water Heater: A Step-By-Step Guide

how to winterize camper water heater

Winterizing your camper water heater is essential to protect it from freezing temperatures and potential damage. When water freezes, it expands, which can lead to leaking or burst pipes in your water supply or drain lines. Winterizing your camper water heater involves a series of steps, including draining the water system, bypassing the water heater, and adding antifreeze to the plumbing system. This process ensures that your water heater is ready to face the cold winter months and can save you from costly repairs.

Characteristics Values
Objective To minimize the risk of leaks in the camper
Water system Drained and replaced with antifreeze
Water filters Removed or bypassed
Tanks Drained
Water heater Drained and bypassed
Antifreeze Pumped into the plumbing system
Batteries Removed and stored in a warm, dry place

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Drain the water heater and lines

Draining the water heater and lines is a crucial step in winterizing your camper or RV to prevent damage from freezing temperatures. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it:

Turn Off the Water Heater:

Before you begin draining, it's important to turn off the water heater to prevent any safety hazards. Locate the water heater and turn off all power sources. This includes turning off the gas, electricity, or any other energy source used for heating. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions for your specific model.

Disconnect Water Supply:

Disconnect your camper from any external water supply, such as city water. This will ensure that water does not continue to flow into the system while you are trying to drain it.

Allow the Water to Cool:

If your water heater was recently in use, allow the water to cool down before draining. Run the hot water faucets inside your RV for a few minutes until the water turns cold. This will help prevent scalding and reduce the pressure within the water heater tank.

Open Drains and Faucets:

Locate and open all low-point drain plugs in the system. These drains are typically located at the lowest points in the plumbing system and will allow water to exit the pipes. Additionally, open all faucets, including hot and cold valves, to allow for complete drainage.

Drain the Water Heater:

Now, it's time to drain the water heater itself. Place a bucket underneath the water heater to catch the initial flow of water. Slowly unscrew and remove the drain plug, allowing the water to drain from the unit. If your water heater has a filter, remove it to facilitate drainage.

Check for Issues:

While the water heater is draining, examine the drained water for any signs of rust, sediment, or scaling. If you notice these issues, it may be necessary to flush your water heater more frequently, replace the anode rod, or consider investing in a new water heater.

Remove the Anode Rod (Optional):

If the water heater is draining slowly, removing the anode rod can speed up the process. The anode rod is often attached to the drain plug, but if it isn't, locate it and remove it. Check the rod for scaling or corrosion. Heavily corroded anode rods should be replaced to protect the interior of the water heater.

Close Drains and Faucets:

Once the water heater and lines are completely drained, close all the drains and faucets. Make sure to recap or replace the drain plugs securely.

Optional: Use Compressed Air:

As an optional step, you can use compressed air to ensure that all remaining water is forced out of the lines. Connect an air compressor to your camper's water inlet, regulating the air pressure between 30 and 50 PSI to avoid damaging the plumbing system. Open each faucet, valve, and fixture one at a time, allowing the compressed air to expel any remaining water.

Final Checks:

After completing the drainage process, double-check that all drains and faucets are closed, and make sure to store your camper in a safe location for the winter.

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Remove or bypass water filters

The first step in winterizing your camper is to remove or bypass any inline water filters as antifreeze can damage them. Most RV insurance policies do not cover damage from frozen water, as it is avoidable. While removing the filters, check to see if they need to be replaced. If they do, you can take your time to find new filters at the best price over the winter.

To locate these filters, refer to your owner's manual. They can be found in different places in different RVs, such as under the kitchen sink, in a kitchen cabinet, in the wet bay, at the spigot, at the convenience center, in a rear storage area, or even near the control panel.

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Drain the tanks

Draining the tanks is an essential step in winterizing your camper or RV to prevent water freezing and causing damage. The process involves draining the freshwater holding tank, as well as the black and grey water tanks. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it:

Locate the Freshwater Holding Tank

The freshwater holding tank is usually located below your RV, near an exterior wall, and is centrally positioned to deliver water to sinks and showers.

Find the Valve and Open It

Once you've located the freshwater tank, simply find the valve and open it to drain the water. This water is potable, so it's okay if it drains onto the ground, although your neighbours in an RV park may not appreciate it.

Locate the Black and Grey Water Tanks

The black and grey water tanks are usually found near an exterior wall underneath the RV's bathroom. The black water tank is for sewage, while the grey water tank holds wastewater from sinks and showers.

Drain the Black Water Tank First

Letting wastewater sit in the black and grey water tanks for extended periods increases the risk of freezing and allows harmful bacteria to grow. These tanks should only be drained at an approved dumping facility. Ensure your drain hose is properly attached at both ends before starting.

To drain the black water tank, locate the drain plug or valve and open it. If your RV doesn't have a tank-flushing system, use a cleaning wand to flush the tank. You can also use products like Flush King to help flush out the waste. Lubricate the termination valves with WD-40 for future use.

Drain the Grey Water Tank

After draining the black water tank, move on to the grey water tank. Draining the black water tank first allows the grey water to flush out the drain hose, keeping it cleaner for future use and storage.

Don't Forget Other Water Sources

In addition to the tanks, don't forget to drain other water sources, such as the hot water heater and water lines. Open all faucets, locate and open the low-point drain plugs, and flush the toilet to remove water from the tank. If you have an outdoor shower, be sure to drain it as well.

Use the RV's 12V Water Pump (Optional)

Some people use the RV's 12V water pump to force the water out completely. If you're using the pump, remember to turn it off as soon as the water is out to avoid damaging the unit.

Recap and Close

Once the water is drained, recap all drains and close all faucets and valves.

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Bypassing the water heater

Step 1: Locate the Water Heater and Bypass Valve

Find your RV water heater, which is typically located on the outside of your vehicle, behind a large cover. Inside your RV, you may need to remove a cover to access the heater. Once you've located the heater, look for the bypass valve. The bypass valve is usually found at the junction of the cold and hot water lines connected to the water heater.

Step 2: Identify the Type of Bypass Valve

There are three common types of bypass valves: the three-valve system, the two-valve system, and the one-valve system. Identify which type you have so you can learn how to operate it correctly.

Step 3: Turn Off Power and Water Supply

Before bypassing the water heater, ensure that all power to the water heater is turned off. This includes both the electric power and the gas supply. Additionally, make sure that the water heater is not hot or under pressure when you begin the bypassing process.

Step 4: Operate the Bypass Valve

The operation of the bypass valve will depend on the type of system you have. For a three-valve system, turn the valves on the cold and hot water lines perpendicular to the line and turn the bypass valve parallel to the line. On a two-valve system, turn both valves parallel to the line. For a one-valve system, simply turn the valve perpendicular to the line. These actions will redirect the water flow to bypass the water heater.

Step 5: Drain the Water Heater

Once the bypass is set up, you can proceed to drain the water heater. Open the drain valve or remove the drain plug, typically located at the lower left corner of the water heater. By leaving a faucet open on the hot water side, you can equalize air pressure and facilitate draining the tank. You may also use a bendable straw to create a siphon and ensure a complete drain.

Step 6: Prevent Water Flow into the Water Heater

To ensure that water doesn't enter the water heater during the winter, you can take additional steps. Remove the fuse of the heater to prevent it from turning on accidentally. Additionally, you can install a water heater bypass valve, which will prevent water and antifreeze from entering the heater tank via the water lines.

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Add antifreeze

Adding antifreeze to your camper water heater is a crucial step in winterizing your RV. Here is a detailed, step-by-step guide on how to do it:

Step 1: Prepare the Antifreeze

Before you begin, ensure you have the correct type and amount of antifreeze. Use RV/Marine antifreeze, which is safe for freshwater plumbing. The amount of antifreeze required will vary depending on the make and model of your RV, so check your owner's manual or consult a specialist. As a general rule, you will need around 2-4 gallons of antifreeze for proper winterization.

Step 2: Bypass the Water Heater

Bypassing the water heater will save you money by reducing the amount of antifreeze needed. Some RVs come with a bypass system pre-installed, but if yours doesn't, you can purchase a temporary or permanent bypass kit. Follow the instructions provided with the kit to install it correctly. Remember to turn off all power to the water heater and ensure the water heater gas pilot is not lit.

Step 3: Connect the Antifreeze

You can add antifreeze using a Water Pump Conversion Kit from the inside or a hand pump from the outside. If using a hand pump, attach the intake siphon to the antifreeze bottle and connect the output hose to the city water inlet. If using the Water Pump Conversion Kit, follow the manufacturer's instructions to connect the tubing to the water pump and the antifreeze container.

Step 4: Pressurize the System

Turn on the water pump to pressurize the plumbing system. This will help distribute the antifreeze throughout the water lines.

Step 5: Start with the Closest Faucet

Beginning with the faucet closest to the pump, slowly open the hot and cold valves. Continue pumping antifreeze until the flow from the faucet becomes a bright pink color. This indicates that all water has been flushed from that particular water line. Close the faucet once you see the pink antifreeze.

Step 6: Repeat for All Faucets

Move on to the next closest faucet and repeat the process. Work your way from the closest to the farthest faucet, including the bathroom sink, shower, and toilet. Don't forget your outside shower if you have one. Close each faucet after flushing with antifreeze.

Step 7: Protect the Drains

Pour a cupful of antifreeze down each drain, including sink and shower drains. Also, add some antifreeze to the toilet and flush it into the holding tank. This will ensure that no water is left in the drains, protecting them from freezing.

Step 8: Final Checks

Once you have flushed all faucets and drains with antifreeze, there are a few final checks to ensure your system is fully winterized. Turn off your water heater's electric heating element for additional protection during storage. Open a faucet to release any remaining pressure in the system. Go to the city water inlet valve, remove the small screen, and push on the valve with a screwdriver until antifreeze comes out. Finally, replace the screen and close the inlet.

Frequently asked questions

Water expands when it freezes, which can lead to leaking or burst pipes in your camper's water supply or drain lines. A leak, big or small, can cause serious damage when left unattended, causing mildew, mould, and water damage.

Most recommend winterizing in late fall, preferably by early to mid-November for colder area climates.

You will need a few gallons of marine/RV antifreeze, a water-heater bypass kit if not already installed, a cleaning wand, a water pump converter kit or tubing to connect to the pump inlet valve, and hand tools to remove drain plugs.

First, remove or bypass any inline water filters as antifreeze can damage them. Then, drain the water heater and lines. Next, bypass the water heater. Finally, add antifreeze to your system.

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