Winterizing your camper is essential to protect your vehicle from damage caused by freezing temperatures. It involves removing water from water lines, tanks, and other water systems to prevent them from freezing and bursting. While you can winterize your camper yourself, you may prefer to engage a professional to do it for you.
The cost of winterizing a camper varies depending on whether you do it yourself or hire a professional. The DIY approach typically costs between $90 and $210 for the first year and between $30 and $45 for each subsequent year. On the other hand, professional winterizing services can range from $130 to $170 for a basic package, depending on the size and class of your camper.
If you choose to winterize your camper yourself, here are the steps you need to take:
- Drain and flush the black and grey water tanks.
- Drain and flush the water heater.
- Bypass the water heater.
- Drain the freshwater tank and low-point drains.
- Flush the water lines with antifreeze.
- Pour antifreeze down the drains of sinks, showers, and toilets.
- Perform additional interior and exterior winterizing maintenance.
By winterizing your camper, you can save yourself from costly repairs and enjoy peace of mind during the cold winter months.
Characteristics | Values |
---|---|
Camper Type | RV, Camper, Trailer, Truck Camper, Fifth Wheel, Big Rig |
Winterizing Method | Antifreeze, Air Compressor |
Winterizing Location | RV Storage Facility, Heated Building, Garage |
Winterizing Time | Before First Freeze, Before Storing for Winter, Before Travelling to Cold Climates |
Winterizing Supplies | Antifreeze, Air Compressor, Siphoning Kit, Water Heater Bypass Kit, Anode Rod, Cleaning Wand, Black Tank Cleaning Solution, etc. |
What You'll Learn
Flushing water systems and adding antifreeze
Flushing your water systems and adding antifreeze is a crucial step in winterizing your camper van or RV. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it effectively:
Step 1: Drain the Water System
Before you begin, make sure to disconnect the outside water source. Locate and open all low-point drains, including those for cold water lines, hot water lines, and the fresh water tank. Open the petcocks to drain as much water from the pipes as possible. Open all water taps, faucets, showers, and flush the toilet to remove any remaining water from the system.
Step 2: Drain the Water Heater
Locate the water heater and either remove the drain plug or open the drain valve, usually found in the lower left corner. Leave a faucet open on the hot water side to equalize air pressure and facilitate draining. You can use a bendable straw in the drain hole to create a siphon, ensuring that all water is drained from the tank.
Step 3: Bypass the Water Heater (Optional)
Bypassing the water heater can save you money by reducing the amount of antifreeze needed. Turn off all power to the water heater and ensure the gas pilot is not lit. You can use a seasonal or permanent bypass kit, or a permanent quick-turn bypass kit with a single valve and a back-flow preventer.
Step 4: Blow Out the Lines
Attach a blow-out plug to the city water intake and use an air compressor to apply air pressure (not exceeding 45 PSI) to remove any remaining water from the system. Close all faucets and petcocks when finished.
Step 5: Add Antifreeze
You can add antifreeze from the inside using a Water Pump Conversion Kit or from the outside using a hand pump. Start with the kitchen faucet, opening only the HOT side. Pump antifreeze until the flow from the faucet turns pink, indicating that all water has been flushed. Close the faucet and repeat on the COLD side. Continue this process for each fixture, working from the highest to the lowest point in the fresh water system. Don't forget to add antifreeze to the outside shower if applicable. Finally, close all faucets and low-point valves.
Additionally, pour at least 2 pints of antifreeze into all sink and shower drains, as well as any other appliances that use water, such as the ice maker and washing machine.
Step 6: Final Steps
After adding antifreeze, drain and dump your gray and black water tanks. Remove the battery, charge it, and store it in a safe location. You can now decide whether to leave the antifreeze in the system until spring or drain it out. If you choose to leave it in, reinsert the water heater drain plug to keep out dirt, debris, and insects. If you decide to drain it, open the low points in the lines and let gravity do its work. Either way, your water system will be protected during the winter.
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Draining the water heater
Draining your RV water heater is a crucial step in winterizing your camper and preventing stale or contaminated water. Here's a detailed guide on how to do it properly:
Step 1: Shut Off the Water Heater
Before you begin draining the water heater, it's important to turn it off. If your water heater runs on propane, shut off the propane gas supply. If it has an electric mode, turn off the power and the breaker to the water heater. This step is crucial to prevent damage to the heating element.
Step 2: Turn Off Water Supply and Relieve Water Pressure
Next, turn off the water supply to your RV, including the water pump. Open a cold and hot water faucet to relieve the water pressure in the system.
Step 3: Allow the Water to Cool
Before draining the water heater, it's important to let the water inside cool down. This is a safety precaution and will make the process more comfortable.
Step 4: Remove the Drain Plug
Locate your water heater, typically in an outside compartment of your RV. The drain plug is usually in the bottom left-hand corner. Use a wrench to remove the plug if it's a Dometic (Atwood) water heater with a nylon drain plug. For a Suburban water heater, remove the anode rod with a socket wrench.
Step 5: Open the Pressure Relief Valve
Once the drain plug is removed, open the pressure relief valve located at the top of the unit. This will help with draining the tank.
Step 6: Drain the Water Heater
With the drain plug removed and the pressure relief valve open, the water will start to drain from the tank. Let it drain until the water flow stops.
Step 7: Flush the Water Heater (Optional)
If you want to give your water heater a thorough cleaning, you can flush it with water. Connect an RV water heater tank rinser to a water hose and turn on the water. Insert the tool into the water heater drain and open the valve to flush out any debris and sediment. Continue flushing until the water coming out is clear.
Step 8: Reinstall the Drain Plug and Anode Rod
After draining and flushing the water heater, reinstall the drain plug and the anode rod if you removed it.
Step 9: Refill the Water Heater (For Continued Use)
If you're not winterizing your RV and plan to use it again soon, remember to refill the water heater and the fresh water tanks before turning it back on.
It's important to get into the habit of draining your water heater regularly, especially when preparing for cold weather. This will help prevent leaks, reduce unpleasant odors, and extend the life of your water heater.
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Bypassing the water heater
Finding the Water Heater Bypass Valve
First, locate your RV water heater tank. This tank has a water line at the bottom where the cold water enters, and a hot water line at the top that feeds your pipes. If there is a middle pipe connecting these two lines, then you have a water heater bypass valve.
Types of Bypass Valves and How to Operate Them
There are three types of RV water heater bypass valves:
- Three-valve system: Ensure that the valves on the cold and hot water lines are turned perpendicular to the line. Turn the bypass valve parallel to the line so that antifreeze passes straight through, bypassing the tank.
- Two-valve system: Turn both valves parallel to the line, allowing water to bypass the heater.
- One-valve system: Simply turn the valve perpendicular to the line to bypass the hot water tank.
Installing a Water Heater Bypass Valve
If your water heater doesn't have a factory-installed bypass, you can easily add one with an RV water heater bypass valve kit. Here are the steps:
- Disconnect the city water and turn off the water pump.
- Remove the water lines and fittings from the back of the tank.
- Wrap the threads of the new fittings with Teflon tape.
- Twist port A of one valve fitting into the cold inlet, with the B port pointing up.
- Connect the cold water line to port C and the bypass line to port B.
- Twist port A of another valve fitting into the hot outlet, with the B port pointing down.
- Connect the hot water line to port C and the bypass line to port B.
- Ensure the valves are in the correct position.
Winterizing Your RV Water Heater
Now, let's go through the process of winterizing your RV water heater:
- Locate your water heater, usually outside the van behind a cover.
- Open the screen and remove the anode rod (if present). Replace it if it looks old.
- Go inside the RV and locate the heater, removing any covers if necessary.
- Turn the bypass valve to the bypass position as described above.
- Remove the fuse from the heater to prevent it from turning on without water.
- Disconnect the city water and empty your water system, including the water heater drain valve, black water valve, gray tank valve, and fresh water drain valve.
- Once empty, turn the knobs to bypass the water heater.
- Connect a winterizing hose to your onboard water pump and place the other end in a jug of RV antifreeze.
- Open the tap nearest the pump and run the pump until pink antifreeze comes out.
- Close that tap and repeat for each tap, from highest to lowest, including the toilet and outdoor shower.
- Finally, turn off the pump, open one tap, and press the RV water inlet check valve to ensure antifreeze gets into the valve.
Additional Winterization Tips
Winterizing your RV involves more than just the water heater. Here are some extra steps to prepare your RV for storage:
- Remove any food that can spoil or attract pests.
- Clean all storage areas, appliances, and surfaces.
- Examine seals around doors and windows, caulking if necessary.
- Check the roof for leaks or damage and make repairs.
- Inspect plumbing vents, roof vents, and the air conditioner.
- Disconnect the 120-volt line cord and store it away.
- Clean and store the sewer hose.
- Park with the emergency brake on and use wheel chocks.
- Stabilize your RV so it doesn't rock when you walk inside.
- Keep the RV out of direct sunlight if possible.
- Wash and wax the exterior.
- Clean the awning without using dish detergent, as it can cause cracking.
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Draining the freshwater tank
Step 1: Prepare Your Camper for Draining
Park your camper on level ground, preferably on a ramp, to facilitate easy drainage. Engage the parking brakes and place wheel chocks behind the rear tires to secure your vehicle and prevent any accidental movement. Ensure there is ample space under the camper to place a container for the drained water and allow you to move around comfortably.
Step 2: Turn Off the Water Supply
Before initiating the drainage process, locate and turn off the main water supply valve. If your camper is connected to an external water source, disconnect the hose from the city water hookup. This step ensures that no residual water enters the tank during the draining process.
Step 3: Open All Faucets and Taps
To drain most of the water from the freshwater tank, open all faucets in the shower, kitchen, and bathroom. You may want to capture and reuse this water for tasks like cleaning or watering plants. Once the water flow from the faucets slows significantly, close all the faucets.
Step 4: Locate and Open the Drain Valve
Refer to your camper's manual to locate the freshwater tank's drain valve or petcock, usually at the bottom of the tank. Open this valve to release the remaining water from the system. Place a bucket or container underneath to collect the water.
Step 5: Open the Low-Point Drain Valves
To completely empty the water from the drain lines, locate and twist open the low-point drain valves near the main drain valve. This step ensures that no water is left in the plumbing system.
Step 6: Check the Water Level
After draining, check the water level in the tank to confirm that it is empty. Look inside the tank or check the transparent scale on its side. This step helps prevent issues caused by stagnant water.
Additional Tips:
- If you're winterizing your camper, remember to add RV/marine antifreeze to your water system after draining to prevent freezing.
- It is recommended to drain and refill the freshwater tank every two weeks if you're actively using your camper to ensure clean water.
- If you're storing your camper for an extended period, always drain the tank to prevent bacterial or algae growth.
- Sanitize your tank regularly by mixing a solution of bleach and water, letting it sit, and then draining and rinsing thoroughly.
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Pouring antifreeze down drains
Pouring antifreeze down the drains is an essential step in winterizing your camper or RV. This process will ensure that the water in your pipes does not freeze and cause extensive damage. Here are some detailed instructions on how to pour antifreeze down the drains:
- Purchase the correct type of antifreeze. It is crucial to buy non-toxic RV antifreeze, which is typically pink in color. Automotive antifreeze is toxic and can be harmful if used in your RV water lines.
- Prepare your RV by draining the black and grey water tanks, as well as the water heater and water lines. Refer to your owner's manual for specific instructions on draining these components.
- Bypass the water heater. This step is important to avoid wasting antifreeze. By bypassing the water heater, you ensure that the antifreeze flows directly into your pipes instead of filling up the water heater tank.
- Connect a water pump converter or winterizing kit to your RV's water pump. This adapter will allow you to pull antifreeze from the jug and send it through the water pump into your water lines.
- Turn on the RV water pump to pressurize the water lines. Open each faucet, one at a time, starting with the one farthest from the pump. Let the antifreeze flow through both the hot and cold settings until you see antifreeze coming out of the faucet. Don't forget to include the toilet, kitchen wand, and any other water-using fixtures.
- Pour antifreeze down the drains. Add 1-2 cups of antifreeze to each drain, including all sinks, showers, and the RV toilet. For the toilet, first, flush 1-2 cups of antifreeze into the black tank, and then add another 1-2 cups into the bowl to protect the valve.
By following these steps, you will effectively protect your RV's plumbing system from freezing during the winter months. Remember to refer to your owner's manual for any specific instructions or variations for your particular RV model.
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Frequently asked questions
There are a few options for getting your camper winterized. You can either do it yourself, or you can get it done by a professional service. If you want to do it yourself, you'll need to follow the steps outlined in various online guides and in your owner's manual. If you'd prefer to have a professional do it, you can take it to an RV dealer or a service center, such as Camping World, which offers winterization services.
The cost of winterizing your camper can vary depending on the size and class of your RV, as well as whether you do it yourself or hire a professional. If you do it yourself, the cost will depend on the supplies you need to purchase, which can range from $90 to $210 for the first year and $30 to $45 for each subsequent year. If you hire a professional, a basic winterizing package typically costs between $130 and $170.
It's recommended to winterize your camper before the first freeze of the season to prevent any damage from freezing temperatures. You should also winterize your camper when you're ready to store it for the winter, even if the temperatures are still warm, to ensure that it's properly prepared for the cold.