Thawing Camper Holding Tanks: Quick And Easy Methods

If your camper's holding tanks freeze, you'll want to get them thawed out quickly. The best way to do this is to apply heat directly to the tanks. A standard hair dryer will do the job, but heat guns will be quicker. Just be careful not to focus the heat on one area for too long, as holding tanks are vulnerable to changes in temperature and you could end up melting the plastic. Start at the top of the tank and work your way down, keeping the dryer or gun in constant motion. Once the tank is thawed, you can open the termination valve and start to heat the contents. If your tanks are enclosed in the underbelly of your RV, you can try using a 100-watt bulb to thaw them out. This method is slower but safer.

Use a hair dryer or heat gun

If your holding tank is frozen, you can use a hair dryer or heat gun to thaw it out. This method is best for when your holding tanks are exposed underneath the RV.

To do this, you will need a headlamp and a hair dryer or heat gun. Put your headlamp on, as you'll be going under the RV. Starting at the top of the tank, use the hair dryer or heat gun to gently warm the tank. Keep the dryer or heat gun in constant motion to avoid melting the tank, as they melt fairly easily. Work your way down the tank until you are sure it's thawed. Then work on the termination valve, being sure to avoid overheating the plastic.

It's important to be extremely careful not to focus the heat on one portion of the tank for too long. You could easily melt the plastic container. Move the dryer or heat gun slowly over the bottom of the tanks in a slow arc. It may take a while, depending on how large the tanks are, but they will eventually thaw.

Be sure the tanks are completely thawed before operating the waste valves for evacuation. It's okay to use the heat gun on the valves themselves, but don't focus on one spot for too long.

Insulate the underbelly of your camper

Insulating the underbelly of your camper is essential to maintaining a comfortable interior temperature and protecting your RV's vital components. Here are some detailed steps to guide you through the process:

Step 1: Jack Up Your RV

Use 2-4 jack stands to lift each side of your RV. Place the jacks under hard points and crank the hitch down for more space if needed.

Step 2: Clean and Inspect the Underbelly

Ensure the underbelly is free of dirt, residue, or debris. Pay close attention to any signs of wear, leaks, or damage. Address these issues before proceeding.

Step 3: Locate Vulnerable Areas

Identify areas with exposed wiring, tanks, and pipes. These critical components require special care during the insulation process to protect them from extreme temperatures.

Step 4: Choose the Right Insulation Material

Select an insulation material suitable for your RV and the climate you'll be travelling in. Common options include spray foam insulation, rigid foam board, reflective foil, fiberglass insulation, and closed-cell spray insulation. Consider factors such as R-value (thermal resistance), weight, ease of installation, moisture resistance, durability, and cost.

Step 5: Measure and Plan

Take precise measurements of the underbelly area to determine the amount of insulation required. Consider any access points, panels, or openings that need to be removed or accommodated.

Step 6: Gather Necessary Tools and Materials

Assemble the required tools, such as a utility knife, tape measure, adhesive or fastener, and safety equipment. Having everything ready streamlines the insulation process.

Step 7: Seal Gaps and Cracks

Use a high-quality sealant like silicone caulk or expanding foam to fill any cracks or gaps in the underbelly before adding insulation. This step helps create an airtight barrier and prevents air leaks that can reduce insulation effectiveness.

Step 8: Install the Insulation

Start by adhering to the arrangement plan. Ensure the insulation fits securely and covers the entire region, paying close attention to the edges, corners, and surrounding areas of components. Use fasteners or adhesive as needed. Smooth out the insulation to eliminate wrinkles or uneven surfaces. If using spray foam, apply it sparingly and evenly as it expands significantly.

Step 9: Consider Vapour Barriers

In humid climates, consider installing a vapour barrier to prevent moisture buildup and improve the overall efficiency of the insulation.

Step 10: Reattach Access Panels

After installing the insulation, firmly reattach any access panels or openings. Ensure the seal is tight, and remove the jacks.

Remember to take precautionary measures, such as rodent control, to protect your insulation. Additionally, regular inspections and maintenance of your RV's underbelly will help extend its lifespan and ensure your comfort during your travels.

Use a 100-watt bulb to thaw slowly

If your camper's holding tanks are protected by a subfloor or an enclosure on the bottom of the coach, but not in a heated compartment, you can use a 100-watt bulb to thaw the contents. Place a drop light with a 100-watt bulb within the same void as the tanks and this will eventually thaw the contents, albeit slowly.

This method is best if your holding tanks are enclosed in the RV underbelly but are not set up with any kind of heater device. The 100-watt bulb will provide a steady amount of heat to gently warm up the holding tank and the surrounding space.

This method is slower than using a hairdryer or heat gun but carries less risk. It is also faster than simply waiting for the tank to thaw naturally.

Wait for the tank to thaw naturally

If you're happy to wait, your camper's holding tank will eventually thaw on its own. This method is the least labour-intensive, but it could take multiple hours, so it's not ideal if you're in a hurry.

You can speed up the process by running the heater in your RV and/or wrapping some insulated blankets around the tanks. This will help to prevent any cracks or damage to the tank's exterior that other, more intensive methods could cause.

If your holding tanks are in an enclosed RV underbelly but are not set up with any kind of heater device, you can install a 100-watt bulb in the underbelly to warm up the space in a gradual and gentle way. This method is less risky than using a hairdryer or heat gun, but it's still faster than simply waiting for the tank to thaw naturally.

If your tanks are not in a heated compartment but are protected by a subfloor or an enclosure on the bottom of the coach, a drop light with a 100-watt bulb placed within the same void will eventually thaw the contents of the tanks, albeit slowly.

Use antifreeze to prevent freezing

Using antifreeze is an effective way to prevent your camper's holding tanks from freezing. Antifreeze has a much lower freezing point than water, so it can protect your plumbing from freezing, expanding, and bursting.

There are two types of antifreeze: ethanol or propylene glycol-based. Both lower the solution's freezing point, but propylene glycol is considered safer as it also raises the solution's boiling point. It is also non-toxic to humans and, when used as directed, is considered safe by the FDA. However, it can be harmful to animals, so handle it with care and store it out of their reach.

To use antifreeze, you'll need to locate your water heater and water pump on the outside of your camper. Start by emptying the hot water tank and releasing the pressure ring. Ensure all electrical components of the water heater are turned off to avoid any hazards.

Next, inspect the water anode rod for corrosion and replace it if necessary. Locate the hot water heater bypass valve and open it, then close it to route the system to bypass the water heater tank.

Now, you can begin circulating the antifreeze. Connect a hose to the antifreeze inlet, ensuring it is not connected to the city water connector or blank tank. Close all faucets and valves, then turn on the water pump. Slowly open the faucets and valves closest to the pump to drain the remaining water, and the antifreeze will begin flowing.

Open the hot and cold valves individually, and once you see the antifreeze, close the valve. Repeat this process for each valve, replacing the antifreeze supply as needed. For your toilets, keep flushing until the antifreeze appears.

Locate your city water connector and open the valve until you see the antifreeze. Finally, drain your black and grey tanks to allow the antifreeze to run into them.

To prevent your holding tanks from freezing, it is recommended to add a gallon of antifreeze to your tank via the toilet. You can also add some antifreeze down the sink to prevent the drain lines from freezing. This will help keep your holding tanks from freezing and save you from the hassle of thawing them out.

Frequently asked questions